Technical Support

Having issues with your Vexilar?

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Lights

Runs with no lights

Colors flashing "wildly" around the dial

Lights are dim

Most of the time this symptom indicates a low battery that needs to be charged or replaced. If you don't have a voltage meter handy, a quick and easy test to verify this is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.
To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1. Fully charge the battery
2. Disconnect the charger
3. Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4. Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it's hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it's unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.
Lights on older FL-8's or FL-8SLT's were dimmer compared to newer units. If you have performed the tests stated above with no change in light brightness it's probably just how they are.
It's also possible there is an accumulation of brush dust on the slip rings and lens. You can send the unit into Vexilar for a general cleaning or you can do it yourself. Look under "Manuals/Instructions" in "Learning Center" for instructions on slip ring cleaning.

Lights have black lines "chattering" inside them

This is probably due to an accumulation of brush dust on the slip rings. You can send the unit into Vexilar for a general cleaning or you can try and do it yourself. Look under "Manuals/Instructions" in "Learning Center" for instructions on slip ring cleaning.

Can't see the lights in the sunlight

If you have an older FL-8 or FL-8SLT the lights on those units were dim compared the newer units. That was just the technology of the time they were made. These units do get washed out in the sunlight easier than the new ones. Unfortunately there isn't any great solution to this problem other than finding a way to block the sunlight from the flasher as best you can.

Battery

Unit doesn’t turn on

Most likely there is an issue with your battery, there is a bad connection, or the motor is failing.

Checking Your Battery

If you don’t have a voltage meter handy, a quick and easy test to check your battery is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Connection Issue

For a connection issue check for breaks in the power cord visually or by wiggling the wire while the unit is running to see if power cuts in and out at any point. Also check for loose connectors or corrosion at the battery terminals.

Motor Failing

If the motor is failing it’s best to send it in to get it replaced. Typically it costs around $80.00 (parts, labor and shipping included) to replace a motor. Other signs of a failing motor is seeing your depth move around, inconsistent motor speed, or a very loud growling noise.

Charger light always stays green

This is typically one of two things: A battery that is fully charged or a battery that is so low the charger doesn’t recognize it’s hooked up to a battery.

If your unit doesn’t turn on when it’s not hooked up to a charger you might have a dead battery. A quick and easy test to verify this if you don’t have a voltage meter handy, is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Don’t forget to check all of your connections as well to see if there are any breaks in the wire or even corrosion on the connectors. A bad connection somewhere in the charging line can cause the light to stay green.Either there is an issue with your battery, there is a bad connection, or the motor is failing.

Charger light always stays red

Many people think charging overnight would be more than enough to bring a battery to full charge. With our current 1amp (1000mA) chargers it may actually take up to 24 hours to charge a completely dead battery and up to 48 hours with the old 0.5 amp (500mA) chargers. Make sure the battery is at room temperature before charging. It is normal for the charger to be warm. If you battery starts getting hot like a hand warmer it’s likely the battery is resistive to charge and needs to be replaced.

Also try disconnecting and reconnecting the charger from the battery. Sometimes this gives it enough “oomph” to get into its maintenance mode.

If your charger stays red while plugged into the wall only, something has failed internally. If under warranty send it in to Vexilar with a copy of your receipt for replacement. Otherwise replace the charger.

Battery indicator says 100% but charger is still red

Do not go by the battery status indicator as a charging guide. Always go by the light on your charger when charging your battery. A battery status indicator is a general guideline of where your battery is at.

Battery indicator says 0% but charger is green

Most likely your battery is so low the charger doesn’t recognize it is hooked up to a battery and stays green. At this point it’s best to replace the battery.

A quick and easy test to verify this if you don’t have a voltage meter handy, is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

It’s also possible that your battery status indicator has failed. If this is the case and it’s under warranty send it in to Vexilar with a copy of the receipt for evaluation.

Unit doesn’t last very long

If you’re unit only lasts a couple hours after a full charge you probably have a battery that needs to be replaced. The best way to verify this is with a voltage meter.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Does Not Turn On

Unit doesn’t turn on

Most likely there is an issue with your battery, there is a bad connection, or the motor is failing.

Checking Your Battery

If you don’t have a voltage meter handy, a quick and easy test to check your battery is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Connection Issue

For a connection issue check for breaks in the power cord visually or by wiggling the wire while the unit is running to see if power cuts in and out at any point. Also check for loose connectors or corrosion at the battery terminals.

Motor Failing

If the motor is failing it’s best to send it in to get it replaced. Other signs of a failing motor is seeing your depth move around, inconsistent motor speed, or a very loud growling noise.

Unit doesn’t last very long

Battery indicator says 0% but charger is green

Interference

How do I use my Interference Rejection (I.R.)?

You will have a hard time getting rid of interference if everyone randomly presses their I.R. button at the same. Have only one I.R. button being pressed at a time and remember to communicate with each other and be systematic in this process.

1.     First turn all units off.
2.     Turn two units back on and have one person press their I.R. button until both units are clear.
3.     If there is a third unit turn it on and press the I.R. button until the display is clear between all three units.
4.     If there is still interference at this point you may have to start the process over again and use a different starting I.R. level.

Once you get four units or more it is almost impossible to get rid of all interference so try to reach a level of interference you can accept. Keeping your gain as low as possible will greatly help to reduce the amount of interference the receiver is open to. You can also try using a transducer with a narrower cone angle.

Lots of interference

It is important to understand the difference between true interference and “clutter”. True interference looks like fish targets that go round and round the dial. This is caused by electrical interference, or “noise”, from other electronics. Use your I.R. (Interference Rejection) button to help clear up this interference. Note the higher you have your gain the more susceptible you are to interference. Make sure that your transducer is below the bottom of the ice so you don’t get noise from within the hole.

If you have random green blips appearing randomly all over your screen you are seeing “clutter”. In almost all cases “clutter” is something being picked up in the water and not false readings or your Vexilar malfunctioning. To reduce “clutter” keep your gain as low as possible or try using the “Low Power” mode. If your unit doesn’t have a “Low Power” mode you might want to try a suppression cable. If you spend a lot of time in shallow water and struggle with “clutter”, changing to a wider cone angled transducer can help. If you have an FLX-28 use C.S. (Color Select) #2. This gets rid of the green light allowing you only to see the stronger signals.

Lots of green lines all over

If you have random green blips appearing randomly all over your screen you are seeing “clutter”. In almost all cases “clutter” is something being picked up in the water and not false readings or your Vexilar malfunctioning. To reduce “clutter” keep your gain as low as possible or try using the “Low Power” mode. If your unit doesn’t have a “Low Power” mode you might want to try a suppression cable. If you spend a lot of time in shallow water and struggle with “clutter”, changing to a wider cone angled transducer can help. If you have an FLX-28 use C.S. (Color Select) #2. This gets rid of the green light allowing you only to see the stronger signals.

Solid green lines at the top of the screen

This is typically caused by a transducer that isn’t below the bottom of the ice. Your transducer will create noise that will ring inside the hole and cause this “clutter”. Drop the transducer just below the bottom of the ice to clear this up.

Line a few feet down that never goes away

This is common when the ice gets so thick you actually get a signal that bounces off the top of the water and back down to the transducer. If you move your transducer up and down you will probably see the signal move with it. You can try raising the transducer until this line goes away but keep in mind it’s always best to keep the transducer below the bottom of the ice to reduce “ice noise”.

Signal is too strong

This can be due to a couple things. Mostly the transducer and depth affects signal strength. The narrower cone angle the transducer has the stronger it will be and the shallower water you are in the stronger the signal will be. Make sure to keep your gain as low as possible. If you are at zero gain and the signal is still too strong, try going into “Low Power” mode or use a suppression cable. The other thing you can try is use a wider cone angled transducer.

Colors flashing "wildly" around the dial

If you have used your I.R. (Interference Rejection) button and get no change this is probably not interference. More likely this symptom indicates a low battery that needs to be charged or replaced. If you don’t have a voltage meter handy, a quick and easy test to verify this is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Noisy

Unit makes a loud screechy sound then goes away

Don’t worry this is normal. When these units are brand new you have square brushes riding on round slip rings. The brushes need time to round out and seat properly onto the slip rings. Once seated properly this will happen less frequently.

Unit makes a low growly sound

It is normal for there to be noise coming from the unit. There are brushes riding on metal slip rings and a motor spinning at about 2400 rpms. There is slight noise variation between units. This is normal.

In the case there is an abnormal noise issue it is most likely coming from the motor and not the brushes as most commonly believed. An older motor may make more noise than when it was brand new but may not affect the function of your unit. If the motor is failing it usually is accompanied by your depth moving or rocking. If you feel you have an issue you can send the unit in to Vexilar for evaluation.

Unit makes a loud screechy sound continuously

There will be noise coming from these units due the motor running and to the brushes riding on slip rings as the wheel spins. Typically it takes many years for the average fisherman to wear their brushes out. If you feel your units noise is not normal send it in to Vexilar for evaluation. Keep in mind it is normal for there to be slight noise variation between units.

I thought the FLX-28 was silent with the new brushless design?

The brushless design does make the FLX-28 quieter than other units, however, there still is a motor spinning the light wheel at about 2500rpms. There is slight noise variation from unit to unit. This is normal.

No Bait

Nothing shows but a light at the top

In most cases this is an issue with the transducer. There’s either a break in the connection somewhere or the transducer has completely lost sensitivity.

To test for a break in the connection turn your unit on and hold the bottom of the transducer to your ear. You should hear the transducer clicking. If it is not clicking there is most likely a break in the transducer cable somewhere. The most common breaking points are right at the transducer itself or by the connector. While holding the transducer to your ear try wiggling the cable at these points to see if you can get the transducer to start clicking again. If you find a break in your wire further than 4 inches away from the transducer you can send it for repair. If the break is right at the transducer there is unfortunately no repair it will need to be replaced.

If the transducer always clicks yet you still only get a light at the top the transducer has probably lost its sensitivity. Unfortunately there is no fix for this and is best to replace the transducer.

The best way to verify it is indeed the transducer is by getting a second known good Vexilar transducer. Plug this transducer into your unit. If everything works without problems it further confirms you have a transducer issue. If the second known good transducer still has the same issue it’s likely there is an issue in the head unit itself. At this point it’s best to send the head unit in for repair. This kind of failure is rare and it’s hard to say exactly what it is. .

Cannot see jig unless I turn the gain way up

Most of the time this is due to a weak transducer. The best way to confirm this is to get a second known good Vexilar transducer and hook it up to your unit. If this fixes your issue its best to buy a new transducer. Unfortunately there is no fix for weak transducers.

If you put a second known good transducer and still have sensitivity issues you may have an issue in the head unit itself. If this is the case send the unit in for evaluation.

Remember the environment you’re in and the equipment you are using can play a big role in what you are seeing. If the jig isn’t within the cone angle or if it’s on the outer edges you may have a hard time seeing it. Current, a minnow swimming off to the side, very shallow water where the viewing area is very limited or a transducer that isn’t hanging vertically can also cause this.

AZ bottom disappeared

If you raise up the transducer more than a foot when in AZ mode, the bottom will disappear off of the screen. Also, if there was a very strong fish target below when you switched to AZ, the unit may have locked on that as bottom. When the fish swam away, so did the "bottom". Simply reset the AZ by switching to NORMAL and then back to AZ.

There is no bottom in AZ mode

You must have the range set deep enough to see bottom on the NORMAL view and there must be red in the bottom signal in order for the AZ to obtain a lock. Increase the depth range and/or gain level until the bottom appears and shows red.

Keeps losing depth or goes into the 300ft scale

Losing depth intermittently usually means there is a connection issue with the transducer. The most common breaking points are right at the transducer itself or by the connector. To test this turn your unit on and hold the bottom of the transducer to your ear. You should hear it clicking. Wiggle the wire at the common breaking points while it’s up to your ear. If you can cause the clicking to start and stop you’ve found a break in the wire.

If you find a break in your wire further than 4 inches away from the transducer you can send it for repair. If the break is right at the transducer there is unfortunately no repair it will need to be replaced.

You can also try getting a second known good Vexilar transducer to put on your unit. If it fixes the issue you can safely assume you have a transducer issue.

For FLX-28 owners in Auto Range: Any time you move the transducer you are changing the depth, forcing it to recalibrate its range. The unit will default to the 300ft range while recalibrating the depth. This can also happen if you have a weak signal or don’t have the transducer below the bottom of the ice.

Brushes

Runs with no lights

Depth is off or moving

If your depth is rocking back and forth the motor is probably failing. If you wish to get your motor replaced send the head unit into Vexilar for repair.

We’ve never seen a unit read the wrong depth unless the motor speed was off. Remember the environment you are plays a big role in what you are seeing on your flasher. A thick weed bed for example, can cause the depth to appear to be at the top of this structure

Depth is rocking back and forth

If your depth is rocking back and forth your motor is probably failing. If you wish to get your motor replaced send the head unit into Vexilar for repair.

Unit makes a growly sound

Doesn’t turn on

Most likely there is an issue with your battery, there is a bad connection, or the motor is failing.

Checking Your Battery

If you don’t have a voltage meter handy, a quick and easy test to check your battery is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Connection Issue

For a connection issue check for breaks in the power cord visually or by wiggling the wire while the unit is running to see if power cuts in and out at any point. Also check for loose connectors or corrosion at the battery terminals.

Motor Failing

If the motor is failing it’s best to send it in to get it replaced. Other signs of a failing motor is seeing your depth move around, inconsistent motor speed, or a very loud growling noise.

Unit makes a loud screechy sound then goes away

Lights are dim

Most of the time this symptom indicates a low battery that needs to be charged or replaced. If you don’t have a voltage meter handy, a quick and easy test to verify this is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery
2.     Disconnect the charger
3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes
4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Lights on older FL-8’s or FL-8SLT’s were dimmer compared to newer units. If you have performed the tests stated above with no change in light brightness it’s probably just how they are.

It’s also possible there is an accumulation of brush dust on the slip rings and lens. You can send the unit into Vexilar for a general cleaning or you can do it yourself. Look under “Manuals/Instructions” in “Learning Center” for instructions on slip ring cleaning.

Lights have black lines “chattering” around in them

This is probably due to an accumulation of brush dust on the slip rings. You can send the unit into Vexilar for a general cleaning or you can try and do it yourself. Look under “Manuals/Instructions” in “Learning Center” on our website to see instructions for slip ring cleaning.

Charger

Charger light always stays green

This is typically one of two things: A battery that is fully charged or a battery that is so low the charger doesn’t recognize it’s hooked up to a battery.

If your unit doesn’t turn on when it’s not hooked up to a charger you might have a dead battery. A quick and easy test to verify this if you don’t have a voltage meter handy, is to plug your charger into the wall and connect the Vexilar at the same time (you will not hurt anything by doing so). If your Vexilar comes back to life when the charger is connected this confirms your battery needs to be charged or replaced.

To properly check your battery with a voltage meter:

1.     Fully charge the battery

2.     Disconnect the charger

3.     Put a load on the battery by running the Vexilar for at least 10 minutes

4.     Connect your voltage meter to the battery

No battery is the same so it’s hard to put an exact number on what determines a good verses a bad battery. A voltage reading around 12.5V (give or take a few tenths of a volt) would be considered a good battery. A battery reading lower than this does not mean it’s unusable, it just may not last as many hours as battery at 100% capacity.

Don’t forget to check all of your connections as well to see if there are any breaks in the wire or even corrosion on the connectors. A bad connection somewhere in the charging line can cause the light to stay green.

Charger light always stays red

No light on the charger

If the light on your charger doesn’t light up at all and is under warranty send it in with a copy of the receipt for replacement. Otherwise replace the charger.

Charger light blinks

This is caused when the connection is hooked up backwards somewhere in the charging line. If all your connections are correct and it still does this send it in for replacement if it’s under warranty with a copy of your receipt. Otherwise replace the charger.

Battery indicator says 100% but charger is still red

Battery indicator says 0% but charger is green

Depth Issue

Nothing shows but a light at the top

Depth is off or moving

If your depth is rocking back and forth the motor is probably failing. If you wish to get your motor replaced send the head unit into Vexilar for repair.

We’ve never seen a unit read the wrong depth unless the motor speed was off. Remember the environment you are plays a big role in what you are seeing on your flasher. A thick weed bed for example, can cause the depth to appear to be at the top of this structure.

Depth is rocking back and forth

If your depth is rocking back and forth your motor is probably failing. If you wish to get your motor replaced send the flasher only into Vexilar for repair.

Depth keeps jumping up/down

Losing depth intermittently usually means there is a connection issue with the transducer. The most common breaking points are right at the transducer itself or by the connector. To test this turn your unit on and hold the bottom of the transducer to your ear. You should hear it clicking. Wiggle the wire at the common breaking points while it’s up to your ear. If you can cause the clicking to start and stop you’ve found a break in the wire.

If you find a break in your wire further than 4 inches away from the transducer you can send it for repair. If the break is right at the transducer there is unfortunately no repair it will need to be replaced.

You can also try getting a second known good Vexilar transducer to put on your unit. If it fixes the issue you can safely assume you have a transducer issue.

For FLX-28 owners in Auto Range: Any time you move the transducer you are changing the depth, forcing it to recalibrate its range. The unit will default to the 300ft range while recalibrating the depth. This can also happen if you have a weak signal or don’t have the transducer below the bottom of the ice.

AZ zero mark doesn’t line up with the AZ scale

This can happen over rare types of bottom conditions. You can trick the unit and make the bottom line up correctly. Here's how: With the unit set to NORMAL, turn the gain control up to 10. Then switch the mode to AZ. If it locks correctly, you can turn the gain back down to a usable level and fish. If not try this: With the unit set to NORMAL, drop the Ice-Ducer way down into the hole. Now switch the unit to AZ. Then, raise the transducer up. You will see the bottom on the AZ moving downward. When the bottom lines up with the zero, set your stopper to this level.AZ bottom disappeared If you raise up the transducer more than a foot when in AZ mode, the bottom will disappear off of the screen. Also, if there was a very strong fish target below when you switched to AZ, the unit may have locked on that as bottom. When the fish swam away, so did the "bottom". Simply reset the AZ by switching to NORMAL and then back to AZ.

There is no bottom in AZ mode

Keeps losing depth or goes into the 300ft scale

AZ bottom disappeared

Damaged Unit

Cable is damaged

Damaged Ice-ducer cables can be repaired if the damaged portion is further than 4 inches away from the transducer. Any closer doesn’t leave enough wire to work with to repair properly. If you want your cable repaired send it in the Vexilar.

My unit is damaged. Can I get it repaired?

We can repair most items that come in the door and a lot of the time at a cheaper price than buying new. You can either send your item in for service or buy replacement parts.

There are a few items that aren’t able to be repaired. There are no fixes for weak transducer or ones with a cut in the cable less than 4 inches from the transducer. Units that have been underwater have a fifty percent chance at best to be repaired depending on how bad the corrosion is. Failed battery status indicators and chargers out of warranty should just be replaced.

FLX-28

Keeps losing depth or goes into the 300ft scale

Any time you move the transducer you are changing the depth. The unit will default into the 300ft range while recalibrating the depth. This can also happen if you have a weak signal or don’t have the transducer below the bottom of the ice.

Depth keeps jumping up/down

Auto Range

Any time you move the transducer you are changing the depth, forcing it to recalibrate its range. The unit will default to the 300ft range while recalibrating its depth. This can also happen if you have a weak bottom signal or don’t have the transducer below the bottom of the ice.

You can also have this issue if you have a soft bottom or very hard bottom. In soft bottom conditions the transducer can receive two signals. One from the top of the soft bottom and one from the actual hard bottom underneath. If the signal strengths are close enough it may switch from one to the other.

In hard bottom conditions it’s possible to get a signal so strong it’s bouncing down and up 2 or 3 times from the transducer. This will cause your depth to be 2 or 3 times deeper. Try keeping your gain as low as possible or use “Low Power” mode.

Connection Issue

Losing depth intermittently usually means there is a connection issue with the transducer. The most common breaking points are right at the transducer itself or by the connector. To test this turn your unit on and hold the bottom of the transducer to your ear. You should hear it clicking. Wiggle the wire at the common breaking points while it’s up to your ear. If you can cause the clicking to start and stop you’ve found a break in the wire.

If you find a break in your wire further than 4 inches away from the transducer you can send it for repair. If the break is right at the transducer there is unfortunately no repair it will need to be replaced.

You can also try getting a second known good Vexilar transducer to put on your unit. If it fixes the issue you can safely assume you have a transducer issue.

Signal is too strong

Aside from the size of a target, the transducer and depth are the two most likely causes of signal strength variation. The narrower the cone angle a transducer has the stronger the signal will be and the shallower water you are in the stronger the signal will be.

Make sure to keep your gain as low as possible. If you are at zero gain and the signal is still too strong, use “Low Power” mode. If you spend a lot of time in shallow water, changing to a wider cone angled transducer may help. You can also try C.S. (Color Select) #2. This gets rid of the green signal if you are seeing a lot of “clutter” on the screen.

My FLX-28 is in meters

To change this back to feet, you first you need to get about 14 volts to the unit. One way to do this is to plug the unit in to a charger and catch it right before the charger light turns from red to green (this is when the charger peaks out at about 14 volts). At this point you can do the same procedure that you would do to go into “Weed Mode”:

1.     Turn the unit off
2.     Set the gain at “0”
3.     Select “Normal” on your mode switch
4.     Turn your unit on while holding in the gain button

If done correctly your unit should change back to “feet”.

Like AZ but the signal is too strong

You can use Auto Zoom and Low Power at the same time. To do this:

1.     Turn your unit off
2.     Set the gain at “0”
3.     Select “LP” on your mode switch
4.     Turn your unit on while holding in the gain button

The unit will briefly say “Low Power” when you first turn it on. Now all mode functions are in Low Power. Simply turn the unit off and back on to go back to normal function.

I thought the FLX-28 was silent with the new brushless design?

The brushless design does make the FLX-28 quieter than other units, however, there is still a motor spinning the light wheel at 2500rpms. There may be a slight noise variation from unit to unit, This is normal.

SonarPhone

I still cannot re-set my T-POD what do I do now?

1. With T-POD off (no light) power cable connected to power or USB port

2. Here is the tricky part... hold the T-OPD with the small groove on the bottom as shown in the attached photo. Now take the shorter re-set plug and try to slowly connect the plug.....right to left as the plug makes contact with the pins.. They tell me your goal is the be sure the pin on the right and the center pin touch almost a second before the left pin makes connection, so do it slowly! Once you have done this keep it connected for 10 seconds, then disconnect.

3. YOU MUST wait for the T-POD to power off again (light must go off)

4. Now wet connections to turn on T-POD and you should be good to go. Password will be 12345678

5. Before the app will run you will need to be sure to select "MASTER" and that password will again be 12345678

Forgot my password. How do I reset my T-BOX back to factory Settings?

Resetting the T-BOX: When the system is ON, press the ON/OFF switch three times, quickly within 3 seconds. The system will then need to be turned off and then re-start. Now the name and password will be back to factory default: 12345678.

How do I contact an actual living breathing person at Vexilar?

At Vexilar, Customer service is critical to everyone who needs it. Click here for all contact options. We have plenty of humans, eager to help. Office hours are 8:00AM to 4:00 PM Monday -Friday

Forgot my password…How do I re-set by T-POD back to factory Settings:

Resetting the T-BOX
When the system is ON, press the ON/OFF switch three times, quickly within 3 seconds. The system will power OFF if the reset was successful. Turn it on again. Now the name and password will be back to factory default: 12345678.

When do I need to re-set my SonarPhone back to factory settings?

Resetting your T-POD or T-BOX should not need to be done often, but it is recommended whenever you are having connection issues. Re-setting the password re-boots your Sonarphone WiFi transmitter and often clears it up any connection issues. Also, if you are find yourself not staying connected to WiFi, or cannot establish a connection or forgot your password… Often when you start using a new device it is best to do the re-set and start fresh.

For T-POD
When the system is ON, press the ON/OFF switch three times, quickly within 3 seconds. The system will power OFF if the reset was successful. Turn it on again. Now the name and password will be back to factory default: 12345678.

For T-BOX
When the system is ON, press the ON/OFF switch three times, quickly within 3 seconds. The system will power OFF if the reset was successful. Turn it on again. Now the name and password will be back to factory default: 12345678.

I cannot connect, Dropped signal or says no “WiFi internet connection”

This is a Samsung phone /tablet issue, go to WiFi settings and in advanced feature noted below:

• “Check for Internet service” - If present make sure this setting is unchecked. If this is checked the phone with try to verify if the access point has internet connectivity. Since the SonarPhone Wi-Fi does not have internet, it results in an error. Example device: Samsung S3, S4.
• “Auto network switch” - If present try disabling this setting. If this setting is enabled it will prompt the camera to automatically switch to a Wi-Fi network with an internet connection. Since the SonarPhone’s Wi-Fi does not have internet, it switches to a different Wi-Fi network. Example device: Samsung Note 3.
• “Smart Mode” - This should be turned OFF. When enabled the device drops SonarPhone App connections when within range of a more popular network such as a Home or Office network. Example device: Samsung Galaxy S4.
• “Avoid poor connection” - If present, make sure that this setting is checked. Example device: Nexus 5.
• “Auto connect” - This setting allows the phone to automatically connect to known Wi-Fi networks. If present, try disabling this. Example device: Samsung Galaxy S3.
• “Sprint Connections Optimizer” - This option is on Sprint phones only. If present, try turning this off. This setting forces an auto-connect to 4G, over-riding Wi-Fi in a small number of locations on the Sprint network. You can find this by going to Settings > More Settings > Mobile Networks > Connections Optimizer > Uncheck “Sprint Connections Optimizer”

Is my neoprene armband waterproof?

No it is not. It is a very well designed armband holder that is only water resistant. If you wish to protect your smart device from submersion we suggest you find a waterproof floating holder that meets your specific requirements.

How do I buy a SonarPhone locally or Internationally?

Right on the Vexilar site is the easiest way to place your orders. SonarPhone

I can’t find the app in the Apple Store

Make sure you're not looking in Apps for iPads only, look for the app for iPhones, the program works in both systems and be sure you do search as one word: SonarPhone

Will FishPhone and Sonarphone work on Kindle or Microsoft surface laptops?

Not at this time.

My tablet was set-up as a SLAVE unit, but does not show any signal.

With SonarPhone, the MASTER must be functioning for a SLAVE unit to also function. You will notice on the SLAVE display even the option for setting the MASTER is not available. To allow the second device to become the MASTER you will need go back to the main page and touch the “MASTER” button, then input the MASTER password to set your device as a MASTER and basically start over with your set-up. Only one system can be the MASTER at a time, while there is no limit to the number of SLAVE devices you have.

My SonarPhone keeps losing connection to my T-POD. Why could that be?

Go to WiFi settings and in advanced feature note below:

o "Check for Internet service" - If present make sure this setting is unchecked. If this is checked the phone with try to verify if the access point has internet connectivity. Since the SonarPhone Wi-Fi does not have internet, it results in an error. Example device: Samsung S3, S4.

o "Auto network switch" - If present try disabling this setting. If this setting is enabled it will prompt the camera to automatically switch to a Wi-Fi network with an internet connection. Since the SonarPhone’s Wi-Fi does not have internet, it switches to a different Wi-Fi network. Example device: Samsung Note 3.

"Mobile Data" setting on S3 phones should be shut off o "Smart Mode" - This should be turned OFF. When enabled the device drops SonarPhone App connections when within range of a more popular network such as a Home or Office network. Example device: Samsung Galaxy S4.

o "Avoid poor connection" - If present, make sure that this setting is checked. Example device: Nexus 5.

o "Auto connect" - This setting allows the phone to automatically connect to known Wi-Fi networks. If present, try disabling this. Example device: Samsung Galaxy S3.

o "Sprint Connections Optimizer" - This option is on Sprint phones only. If present, try turning this off. This setting forces an auto-connect to 4G, over-riding Wi-Fi in a small number of locations on the Sprint network. You can find this by going to Settings > More Settings > Mobile Networks > Connections Optimizer > Uncheck "Sprint Connections Optimizer".

href="http://www.4gon.co.uk/solutions/technical_factors_affecting_wireless_performance.php" target="_blank">contribute to the loss of the WiFi signal.

How do I prevent losing my T-POD when casting?

You do not want your line to break when casting your T-POD, so be sure to use a heavy braided line, at least 10 lb test. Tie this to a medium size snap and clip this to the T-POD's nose ring. Make sure you use the correct knot for the line you are using. The Palomar knot is best for most braids. Also, the fishing pole you use should be heavy enough to support the weight of the T-POD without too much bending.

When sharing a friends sonar signal, why don’t I have control of some of the menu functions?

Yes. SonarPhone relies on a Master/Slave controller system. There can only be one Master, but an unlimited number of Slave viewers. To prevent the secondary or Slave user from interfering with the Master user, some menu functions are disabled.

Why do only some of my menu functions work in the simulator mode?

Some menu functions can only work if the system is actually receiving a sonar signal.

What will Vexilar do if I damage my T-POD?

SonarPhone engineers have worked hard to make the T-POD and T-BOXes out of the most durable materials possible, but sometimes events occur no one has control over. T-POD No Hassle Service/Warranty Program Your SonarPhone T-Pod has a one year warranty from date of purchase, but we know fishing can be hard on equipment. So if you damage your T-POD (and this is NOT covered by your warranty), you can have it replaced for roughly half of the original cost. This option also extends beyond the standard warranty period. So if five years from now the battery fails, Vexilar’s No Hassle Service Program for SonarPhone T-POD owners will be there for you for as long as you own the product! This offer DOES NOT extend to the Sonarphone T-BOX systems – Sorry. Here’s how it works: Send us your damaged or destroyed SonarPhone T-POD along with $60.00 US, and we will send you back a replacement T-POD! No questions asked. This cost includes domestic return shipping. Some additional shipping may apply for customers outside the USA. Credit card payment is also accepted by phone. (Visa and Master Card only). Note the replacement DOES NOT include charging cables, Adaptors, Neoprene armband or any other special offers. It is the T-POD only that will be replaced, part #SP100A. More details available in your on-line Owners Manual.

If I dropped my T-POD, will it still work?

The internal components of the T-POD are designed to be impact resistant. Vexilars extensive weather chamber, vibration and stress testing of each T-POD will protect your system from failure under normal use. If you notice the T-POD being cracked, from impact, DO NOT put into water as water contamination will shut system down. A cracked system is NOT covered by your warranty. We recommend you use a silicone glue to seal the crack before using it again.

Can I open my T-POD or T-BOX?

No the system is sealed, so there is no way to get into your T-POD . If you think your T-POD or T-BOX is not working correctly, please visit the Mobile App support page.

How many re-charges should I expect out of my T-POD?

The Lithium Ion battery technology used in the T-POD comes from camera technology and you should expect 500 complete recycle charges and much more if you do not allow the battery to be completely drained before re-charging. Charge the battery often and you will have good battery life for years!

Will my T-POD work in Salt water?

All SonarPhone systems are designed for saltwater use with the best stainless components possible. However, rust and electrolysis can still occur, especially if charging while still damp, so please wash your T-POD in fresh water after each use and dry completely before attempting to re-charge.

My Charging therminals are getting rusty!

This is due to electrolysis talking place if the terminals are not dry when you start the re-charging process. We recommend you use a cue tip and WD-40 to dry the terminals keep the terminals free from rust. This will help prevent any rust from developing.

Can I Over charge my T-POD?

No you cannot. You can either use your USB port on your computer to charge your T-POD or use the supplied AC 110200 volt adapter. Expect it to take about an hour to re-charge a fully drained T-POD battery

My T-POD is randomly flashing in the water, is that normal?

This is telling you the T-POD is transmitting! The lights inside the T-POD are a helpful tool to let you know what is going on with your system. Light-on-steady means the system is on but not transmitting. A random blinking light means the system is transmitting a WiFi signal. When Charging the light inside will be red and signifies you are in charging mode. It then goes to green when the charge cycle is complete.

How do I turn my T-POD off after I am done using it?

Its automatic! The T-POD is water activated and when removed from the water, the system remains transmitting for 30 seconds before it shuts down.

My T-BOX on-off switch is flickering? Is that normal?

Yes it is. When the system turns on the light will be steady, but as it starts transmitting the light will ALWAYS be flickering to confirm the T-BOX is transmitting.

My system looses WiFi and just goes back to my icons

This is another setting option you need to adjust under the WiFi controls. You need to Auto-Connect or Always connect to the selected WiFi signal, since you will from time to time have a break in your WiFi transmission, you do not want to get kicked out. When this occurs your only option is to re-enter the system, AFTER you adjust your WiFi settings.

Why can’t I see my display in bright sunlight?

All Smart devices have a display brightness control, go to your settings and set brightness control of auto to manual to pump up the brightness.

My Sonarphone goes to sleep after a few minutes.

You need to go to settings and adjust the sleep mode to a longer period or never to prevent your system from going to system lock or sleep mode.

My SonarPhone only shows a simulation.

You need to go into the menu setting of SonarPhone and disable your simulator mode setting

Will my smart phone or tablet be able to run SonarPhone App?

In most cases it will! But you need to have an Android system 2.0 or newer or Apple iOS 4.3 iPhone 4 & Up / iPad, iPad2, iPad Mini.

How do I reset my T-Pod?

1) The T-pod must be OFF (Not glowing green) and FULLY CHARGED before resetting;
2) Using the shorter (reset) lead on power charging cable you will need to connect to power then connected to your T-POD for at least 10 seconds
3) Remove the lead from the T-pod, DO NOT CONNECT THE DEVICE (SMARTPHONE) TO THE T-POD immediately. Allow the T-pod turn off automatically in one minute;
Factory Password code is 12345678
If the device does not accept the factory default password please re-peat steps A – B & C (It may take several attempts in some cases.)
Don’t forget to re-establish yourself or device as the Master before you enter the SonarPhone app.
Master Password:12345678

After I add my WiFi password 123445678 my Samsung S3 and S4 phones tell me “No Internet Connection” what is going on?

Go to your WiFi advanced settings and remove your selection for WiFi Internet connection. Your phone was set to only look for WiFi that delivers an internet connection.

How do I get GPS/Mapping feature with to my SonarPhone?

Navionics and SonarPhone have joined forces to create the world’s first and only smart device sonar/GPS system you can run at the same time on your smart device. Available now only for iOS systems, it will soon be available for Android devices too! You will need to go to the iTunes store and look for the Navionics apps. ALL Navionics apps, including their free version has the SonarPhone app function built right inside the app. Note the app you download from SonarPhone WILL NOT have the ability to use GPS/Mapping at the same time, you need to get the Navionics app to make your dreams come true…

Fish-Scout Phone

What about fogging or a cloudy monitor display?

Water contamination in your camera housing will often appear as a foggy or cloudy display. Don't confuse this with dirty water. Above the water, the monitor display will always be foggy or cloudy. When this happens all the time, then you know you have water contamination. This is NOT repairable and must be replaced. This IS a warranty issue for the first two years of purchase, after that, you will need to purchase a replacement camera. For service or warranty return back to the factory ONLY the camera and Cable for replacement (along with proof of purchase of course if it is under warranty)

My camera is leaking! Why is this happening?

Don't worry! Your camera is not leaking, it is the water coming from inside the protective shell that surrounds your actual camera housing. The Vexilar camera housing is designed to allow water to flow inside the protective housing to give you better balance in the water with less weight . This is normal to see a trail of water come from the camera when you remove it from the water.

I would like to mount my Fish-Scout in my boat, do you have a bracket for it?

Great idea for sure and it works great in open water. Vexilar does offer an Open water kit option for the camera systems that consists of a sun hood, mounting bracket, Vexilar Quick Release mount and wire harness. Check it out on-line under Vexilar accessories. Kindle or Microsoft surface laptops?

Ice-Ducer

Cable is damaged

Nothing shows but a light at the top

Nothing shows but a light at the top

In most cases this is an issue with the transducer. There’s either a break in the connection somewhere or the transducer has completely lost sensitivity.

To test for a break in the connection turn your unit on and hold the bottom of the transducer to your ear. You should hear the transducer clicking. If it is not clicking there is most likely a break in the transducer cable somewhere. The most common breaking points are right at the transducer itself or by the connector. While holding the transducer to your ear try wiggling the cable at these points to see if you can get the transducer to start clicking again. If you find a break in your wire further than 4 inches away from the transducer you can send it for repair. If the break is right at the transducer there is unfortunately no repair it will need to be replaced.

If the transducer always clicks yet you still only get a light at the top the transducer has probably lost its sensitivity. Unfortunately there is no fix for this and is best to replace the transducer.

The best way to verify it is indeed the transducer is by getting a second known good Vexilar transducer. Plug this transducer into your unit. If everything works without problems it further confirms you have a transducer issue. If the second known good transducer still has the same issue it’s likely there is an issue in the head unit itself. At this point it’s best to send the head unit in for repair. This kind of failure is rare and it’s hard to say exactly what it is.

Cannot see jig unless I turn the gain way up

Lots of interference

Lots of green lines all over

Solid green lines at the top of the screen