Here are the answers to some of the most often asked questions. If you can't find what you're looking for here, please contact us.
Q: How do I contact an actual living breathing person at Vexilar, Inc.
A: Fortunately, at Vexilar, this is fairly easy to do. Click here for all contact options. We have plenty of humans, eager to help.
Q: I don't have the owners manual for my unit. Where can I get it?
A: All manuals and instruction sheets for our current and recent products are available for free download. You can save to your computer and/or print them out. If you want a hard copy, or you need a manual for an old product, please contact us.
Q: How do I get my unit serviced?
A: Send it to:
Vexilar, Inc. Attn. Service
6667 W Old Shakopee Road
Suite #101
Minneapolis, MN 55438
When you send the unit in, please include a short note about the problem, your return address, and telephone or email. We can contact you if the repair looks to be expensive or if you request an estimate. Service time generally runs about 5 working days.
Q: Do you service your older product?
A: Whenever possible. We still are able to repair depth finders from the late '60, but only if the failed part is available. The best thing to do, if you are in need of repair, is to contact us before you send the unit in. Have ready the model of the unit and a description of the problem. We should be able to give an idea of its problem and possible repair.
Q:Why can my friend see his/her bait, but I cannot?
A: To judge why one sonar system can pick-up a target and another cannot starts with some standard testing. Click Here to view possible solutions.
Q: How do I calibrate the depth on my Fish Scout DTD system?
A: Complete instructions are in the on-line owner's manual on page 17. You can also watch this how-to video.
Q: Can I upgrade my FS1000 system by just buying a DTD camera?
A: For the 20011/12 season extra DTD camera components will NOT be available due to demand. For the 2012/13 season, you will be able to purchase the DTD camera and calibration switch box that WILL work on your FS1000 monitor. First generation FS1000 systems do have a different set of menu functions, so while the system will work normally, you cannot use the Mirror display option on the menu and you also will give up the 4:3 perspective option on the display that is available on second generation monitors. In this case, your only display option will remain a 16:9 perspective as it has always been. A price has not yet been established for the DTD camera only.
Q: I have a Fish Scout AND a Vexilar and would like to make my own Double Vision system, is that possible?
A: Sorry to say that for the 2011/12 season, we WILL NOT have the Double Vision case only option available. Demand for the Double Vision systems far outpaced our projections and so all cases were made into completed Double Vision systems. Double Vision cases alone WILL BE available for the 2012/13 season for a price of $99.95, this includes the case and the soft pack carry case.
Q: I would like to mount my Fish Scout in my boat, do you have a bracket for it?
A: Great idea for sure and it works great in open water. Vexilar will be offering an open water option by July of 2012, it will consist of a gimble bracket, sun hood and quick release mounting bracket. Price for this option has not yet been established. Keep watching the Vexilar site for more details!
Q: How do I mount my Dual or Tri Beam switch box to the case?
A: If you wish to mount your switch box to your Double Vision system without sonar you will find that there are holes pre-drilled to fit either your Tri-Beam control switch or your Dual Beam control switch. Use a flat screwdriver or even a butter knife to slowly pry off your switch box you’re your current Pro Pack or Ultra Pack case and save the little plastic rivets that hold your switch box into position. Use the same plastic rivets to re-attach your switch box to your Double vision by pressing them into the new hole positions.
Q: My camera is leaking!
A: Don’t worry! Your camera is not leaking, it is the water coming from inside the protective shell that surrounds your actual camera housing. The Vexilar camera housing is designed to allow water to flow inside the protective housing to give you better balance in the water with less weight . This is normal to see a trail of water come from the camera when you remove it from the water.
Q: Why does my DTD direction display keep moving?
A: The digital sensor inside your camera is extremely sensitive and not at all like traditional analog systems like a hand held compass. But like a hand held compass, if you get too near metal, the signal will change. The key with the DTD system for testing is to be free from metal… Even a metal building will affect the super sensitive sensors inside your DTD camera. The second key factor is to keep the monitor base unit level and stable. The calibration switch located under the monitor on the base of your unit actually talks with your camera and if both are moving at the same time, it may get confused. If you move the monitor and base from spot to spot, it is always best to sit the Monitor down in one place for a short period to allow the camera to find itself again.
Q: What about fogging or a cloudy monitor display?
A: Water contamination in your camera housing will often appear as a foggy or cloudy display. DON’T confuse this with dirty water. Above the water, the monitor display will always be foggy or cloudy. When this happens all the time, then you know you have water contamination. This is NOT repairable and must be replaced. This IS a warranty issue for the first two years of purchase, after that, you will need to purchase a replacement camera. For service or warranty return back to the factory ONLY the camera and Cable for replacement (along with proof of purchase of course if it is under warranty)
Q: Does the FL-20 have Interference Rejection like the FL-18?
A: Yes, it's virtually identical. There are ten IR settings controlled by pressing in on the Gain control.
Q: What improvements does the FL-20 have over the FL-18?
A: The FL-20 has a flat screen that delivers a larger display that won't trap in rain or snow and increases the viewing angle by 50%. It has two auto zoom ranges that split the screen to let you focus on the bottom 6 or 12 feet of the water column. It also has a night mode that allows you to cut the output of the LED display by 50% to avoid getting night blindness. The FL-20 also has a built-in low battery indicator.
Q: Will my old transducer from my FL-8 or FL-18 work with my FL-12 or FL-20?
A: Yes, all transducers are fully interchangeable between the FL-8s, FL-18, FL-12 and FL-20's.
Q: Are the power cords interchangeable form unit to unit?
A: No. Only the FL-8s and FL-18s are interchangeable. The FL-12 and FL-20's use the same power cord, but will NOT work with the FL-8s or the FL-18s.
Q: What improvements does the FL-18 have over the FL-8?
A: There are three main improvements over the FL-8. First is the split-screen zoom, second is the Low Power Mode, and third are the much brighter display lights.
Q: Will my old FL-8 transducer work with the FL-18?
A: Yes, all transducer and accessories are fully interchangeable between the FL-8s and the FL-18.
Q: Does the FL-18 have Interference Rejection like the FL-8SE?
A: Yes, although the control is slightly different. There are ten IR settings controlled by pressing in on the Gain control.
Q: Can the FL-18 be converted to a Deep Range like the SE?
A: Yes, the last range would change from 200 feet to 300 feet. This custom conversion needs to be done by our service department.
Q: Does the FL-12 have Interference Rejection like the FL-8SE?
A: Yes, it's virtually identical. There are ten IR settings controlled by pressing on the I.R. button.
Q: What improvements does the FL-12 have over the FL-8SE?
A: The FL-12 has a flat screen that delivers a larger display that won't trap in rain or snow and increases the viewing angle by 50%. A new enhanced receiver gives you cleaner signals and less noise.
Q: How do you read the correct depth on the FL-8 SE?
A: The range control setting tells you how to interpret the depth displayed on the screen. The S numbers are white. This tells you to look at the white numbers on the outside of the depth scale. The D numbers are yellow. For these settings, you look at the yellow numbers on the inside of the display. A setting of S-1 would tell you to read the white numbers on the display as your depth. If the range control is set on S-2. This tells you to look at the white numbers and multiply the reading by two. Therefore, a bottom indication at 12 feet, on the display, needs to be doubled to get the actual depth of 24 feet. If the range setting was S-4, you would read the depth as 48 feet. The same method holds true for the D settings, only you read the yellow numbers on the depth scale. Still confused? Download the Owner's Manual or watch an instructional video.
Q: Can I have my older FL-8 or FL-8 SLT upgraded to an FL-8 SE?
A: No it cannot. Well, not cheaply anyway. The differences in circuitry between the older FL-8s and the SE version are too great to make upgrades available. The cost would approach that of a new unit.
Q: I have an FL-8 SE standard range unit, but would like the deeper unit. What can I do?
A: Send the unit in to our service shop. We can convert it to the other model for a nominal charge.
Q: What is the smallest ounce bait I should be able to see on the FL-8 SE?
A: It is not so much the weight of the target, but the visible surface area of the bait that the unit sees from above. The more horizontal surface area the larger the target will appear on the display.
Q: One of your competitors boasts a higher watt unit. I've always been told to go for the wattage. What should I do?
A: Power output is only one of the factors in the operation of a depth finder. It measure how much "punch" a sonar transmitter has. Other sonar specifications, such as receiver sensitivity, sonar resolution, and display resolution have just as big of an effect on the overall performance of the unit.
Q: Does the FL-8 SE work as good on the boat as the ice?
A: Yes, but differently. On the open water it is difficult to see your bait because the motion of the boat. On the open water you use the unit to see structure, quick depth changes, and fish. We recommend that you mount the flasher next to your LCD graph. You will be amazed at what you've been missing.
Q: I'm Color-Blind. Can you help me?
A: Yes, we do offer a service fix for you. By changing the green color to a blue, most color-blind people can recognize the difference between the colors. Units that can be converted are: FL-8SLT, FL-8SE, FL-12, FL-18 and FL-20. Learn all about this service update here.
Q: Can my older FL-8 be upgraded so it will have the new feature of the SE?
A: No it cannot. Well, not cheaply anyway. The differences in circuitry between the FL-8 and the SE version are too great to make upgrades available. The cost would approach that of a new unit.
Q: How can I make my FL-8 look brighter?
A: Often, the older FL-8 units get an accumulation of "brush dust" on the interior of the unit. This tends to affect the display, slowly, over a period of time. A good cleaning, and possibly a new brush assembly, is in order. You may be able to perform this service yourself. Click here for detailed instructions on how to do so.
Q: I have a SiTex, Micronar, or Hondex FL-8. Is that your product too?
A: Vexilar was not involved with the FL-8 before 1990. Any product manufactured under the other names was not made by us, nor did we "buy out" those manufacturers. We can, however, provide parts and service for all of the older FL-8 models.
Q: How long can I expect my FL-8 to last?
A: All of the FL series flashers are incredibly durable. The case, switches, and electronics will last for many years. The motor and display brush assembly, however, have a limited life time. You can expect to replace these two items every 5 to 7 years, if you use the unit a lot.
Tip - Get the brushes replaced before they wear down too far, it may save your motor and some repair cost. We even have a Brush Replacement Kit for the do-it-yourselfer. Get it here.
Q: Does the Mag Shield help you see the FL-8 in the sunlight?
A: No, the Mag Shield is designed to magnify the screen and shield the display from debris falling in.
Q: Will the Sun Hood fit over the Mag Shield?
A: Yes, the Sun Hood fits right over the Mag Shield.
Q: Will the S-Cable help get rid of my interference?
A: No, it will only make any interference problems worse. The S-Cable is for shallow water use.
Q: What is a pixel and how many do I want?
A: A pixel is simply one dot on the LCD panel. There are thousands of them on one LCD panel. The smaller they are, the clearer the picture. The more you have in the vertical direction, the better depth resolution you have. The more you have in the horizontal direction, the more time your image stays on the screen.
Q: Is it true that Vexilar introduced the first LCD depth finder to the sport fishermen back in the '80s?
A: Yes, it was the model 480. There are still a few in operation today. The models 481 and 482 followed with the additions of on-screen speed and temp as well as dual frequency transmitters.
Q: Can an LCD depth finder be used for ice fishing?
A: Generally, yes. You do have to sacrifice some speed, not to mention the color. Even if the LCD is operating in an "instantaneous" mode, the actual pixels cannot light, and turn off, as fast as a neon or LED display. As far as freezing, we, and most manufacturers have designed that problem away. At least for the average fishermen, anyway.
Q: Why would I need to calibrate my speed and temperature sensors?
A: When the sensors are manufactured there are variances in the value of the components used. There may also be changes in the design that require that the unit be re-calibrated. If the unit is new, or you are replacing a sensor, you should make sure the readings are close to accurate by comparing them to a known value (i.e. a thermometer for temp or a GPS, or speedometer, for speed). If the LCD is reporting a wrong value, correct it in the units menu calibration. Contact service if you have questions.
Q: Are all of the FL Series transducers interchangeable?
A: Yes, all of the transducers sold with or as accessories to any of the current FL series flashers will work with any other FL unit, even the older non-Vexilar units. Click here for all of the options.
Q: Will the Ice-Ducer work on my older Vexilar, or other brand, FL-8?
A: Yes. All of the FL Series transducers are compatible with the older versions of the unit. The Ice-Ducer will also work on many other bands of sonar. If the unit is 200 kHz and the proper connector is available we can set you up. Contact service for details.
Q: Can I shorten or lengthen my transducer cable?
A: Yes, shortening involves removing the connector, cutting off some length, and then re-soldering the connector back on. Lengthening involves adding extensions. Changing the length won't effect performance noticeably, unless you extend the cable beyond 50 feet or so.
Q: Do transducers go bad?
A: On average, transducers fail more often than the sonar units they are connected to. The biggest "killer" of transducers is impact damage. This is usually evident by severe scratches or dents in the plastic housing.
Q: How can I test to see if my transducer is bad?
A: Try this test: Hold the transducer about 24" above a hard floor. There must be a flat solid floor below, no carpet. Place a hard cover book on the carpet if you need to. If it's an Ice-Ducer style, hold it by the cable. If it's a Puck or High-Speed, butt the top side up against the underside of a table. This is to insure that the transducer will point straight at the floor. Now, turn the flasher on to the first range. With the Gain set to zero, you should see a mark at the 12:00 position indicating the top, or your transducer, and another mark at the 9 foot line indicating the bottom, or floor
Notice how the depth is completely inaccurate. The reason is that the speed of the burst of sound coming out of your transducer is traveling much slower in the air than it would be in the water. So the unit thinks it's deeper. Also the strength of your system is much weaker in air than water. The top line should be mostly red in color. The bottom line may be green, orange, or red (depending on the strength of your system, how straight your transducer is, and the type of floor). If you cannot see the floor mark without having to turn your gain up, try a harder or smoother type of floor. If there is no change, the system has a sensitivity problem. You must see at least a green mark, on a hard floor, with the gain at minimum to pass the test
You can judge the overall sensitivity of the system by doing this "air demo" test, but you can't tell if a weakness is due to the unit or transducer (which is much more common) without replacing one or the other with a known good component. Borrow a friend's transducer or bring your setup into your local Vexilar dealer and ask if you can use one they have in stock for your test.
If your system passes the test, but you are still experiencing trouble seeing your bait out on the ice, clean the transducer face with hot water and a common dish washing detergent. Also, be sure you wet the transducer by rubbing water into the face of it before you start to fish. This insures good acoustical contact with the water.
If your transducer doesn't pass the test, it will have to be replaced. Weak transducers cannot be repaired. The dealer should be happy to help you out. If the flasher itself proves to be the culprit, our service department should be able to solve your problem.
Q: My AlumaDucer is not working as I expected.
A: Please see the special FAQ's for the AlumaDucer here.
Q: How long should I charge my battery?
A: If it is a Vexilar charger, charge until the indicator light tells you the battery is full. If not, you will need to find a way to measure the battery voltage. Generally, the charge should reach at least 14.5 volts, but not be allowed to go beyond 15 volts (measured while charging). A voltage meter can tell you this.
Q: Does my Vexilar Battery have a memory?
A: No. It is best to get in the habit of charging the battery after every use. The "fuller" you keep the battery, the longer it will last you. That's both in hours and years.
Q: My Ultra Pack Battery Won't Charge
A: Be sure to turn the Master Power Switch to the ON (|) position. This switch effectively disconnects the battery from everything else. If you charge with the switch off, the Battery Status Indicator will light up, but the battery won't get charged.
Q: What is Vexilar's Warranty on Ice Fishing Batteries?
A: The battery warranty is covered under a pro-rated performance guarantee. Failure to properly care for battery is not the responsibility of Vexilar. Here are the details of the battery coverage from Date of Purchase (Proof of purchase will be required):
Q: Can I order direct from the factory?
A: Yes, you can contact us directly or order using our secure online ordering system. Just click on the "Purchase" tab located on any of the product or accessory pages.
Q: Why are your prices higher than my local dealers prices?
A: Because we want to encourage you to buy from your local tackle or sporting goods dealer. They are an important part of the system.
Q: What if I want something that's not listed?
Ask your dealer if you can "special order" it. Or, contact us by email. We can help you find out if it's available, and where.