Keeps losing depth or goes into the 300ft scale

Any time you move the transducer you are changing the depth. The unit will default into the 300ft range while recalibrating the depth. This can also happen if you have a weak signal or don’t have the transducer below the bottom of the ice.

Depth keeps jumping up/down

Auto Range

Any time you move the transducer you are changing the depth, forcing it to recalibrate its range.  The unit will default to the 300ft range while recalibrating its depth.  This can also happen if you have a weak bottom signal or don’t have the transducer below the bottom of the ice.

You can also have this issue if you have a soft bottom or very hard bottom.  In soft bottom conditions the transducer can receive two signals.  One from the top of the soft bottom and one from the actual hard bottom underneath.  If the signal strengths are close enough it may switch from one to the other.

 In hard bottom conditions it’s possible to get a signal so strong it’s bouncing down and up 2 or 3 times from the transducer.  This will cause your depth to be 2 or 3 times deeper.  Try keeping your gain as low as possible or use “Low Power” mode.

Connection Issue

Losing depth intermittently usually means there is a connection issue with the transducer. The most common breaking points are right at the transducer itself or by the connector.  To test this turn your unit on and hold the bottom of the transducer to your ear.  You should hear it clicking.  Wiggle the wire at the common breaking points while it’s up to your ear.  If you can cause the clicking to start and stop you’ve found a break in the wire.

 If you find a break in your wire further than 4 inches away from the transducer you can send it for repair ($15.00 Labor + $10.00 shipping).  If the break is right at the transducer there is unfortunately no repair it will need to be replaced.

You can also try getting a second known good Vexilar transducer to put on your unit.  If it fixes the issue you can safely assume you have a transducer issue.

Signal is too strong

Aside from the size of a target, the transducer and depth are the two most likely causes of signal strength variation.  The narrower the cone angle a transducer has the stronger the signal will be and the shallower water you are in the stronger the signal will be. 

Make sure to keep your gain as low as possible.  If you are at zero gain and the signal is still too strong, use “Low Power” mode.  If you spend a lot of time in shallow water, changing to a wider cone angled transducer may help.  You can also try C.S. (Color Select) #2.  This gets rid of the green signal if you are seeing a lot of “clutter” on the screen.

My FLX-28 is in meters

To change this back to feet, you first you need to get about 14 volts to the unit.  One way to do this is to plug the unit in to a charger and catch it right before the charger light turns from red to green (this is when the charger peaks out at about 14 volts).  At this point you can do the same procedure that you would do to go into “Weed Mode”:

1.     Turn the unit off
2.     Set the gain at “0”
3.     Select “Normal” on your mode switch
4.     Turn your unit on while holding in the gain button

If done correctly your unit should change back to “feet”.

Like AZ but the signal is too strong

You can use Auto Zoom and Low Power at the same time.  To do this:

1.     Turn your unit off
2.     Set the gain at “0”
3.     Select “LP” on your mode switch
4.     Turn your unit on while holding in the gain button

  The unit will briefly say “Low Power” when you first turn it on.  Now all mode functions are in Low Power.  Simply turn the unit off and back on to go back to normal function.

I thought the FLX-28 was silent with the new brushless design?

The brushless design does make the FLX-28 quieter than other units, however, there is still a motor spinning the light wheel at 2500rpms.  There may be a slight noise variation from unit to unit. This is normal,